No products in the basket.
It is very simple to sum up both the work and the world of Mr Valentino in two words – the best; it had to be right or not at all, there was never any compromise.
His personal lifestyle and his work reflected a complete understanding of the international high life and jet set. Indeed, La Dolce Vita and Valentino have the same significance in the imagery and style history of Italy.
Aristocrats to silver screen legends knew Valentino would give them class, glamour, sexiness, and luxury and across the years, the Valentino magic worked for Elizabeth Taylor and Julia Roberts alike.
Let us look at the facts behind the legendary man. Born in Voghera in Lombardy on the 11th May 1932, his father, who owned an electrical appliance store, and his mother always supported him. After time at the Academia dell Arte in Milan, he realised his future lay in fashion, and at that period Paris was the world centre for fashion.
Valentino went to Paris to study at the École des Beaux Arts, followed by a course at the Chambre Syndicale School. After graduating, he wished to join Jacques Fath but instead went in 1950, at the age of 18, to Jean Desses, a Greek couturier renowned for his drapes; after some years at Desses, he moved to Guy Laroche who was just starting out; he stayed there two years before returning to Italy. This was a time when Paris couture still ruled the fashion world for both names and inspiration, Italy as a fashion voice was only just starting.
It is also during his time in Paris that Valentino met Jacqueline de Ribes, the Duchess of Windsor and other clients who would follow him when he launched his own label.
With backing from his father and a friend, Valentino launched his own label in Rome in 1960 at the age of 28. Although things seemed to be OK it was not until he met a young architecture student, Giancarlo Giammetti, that the Valentino business became solid and successful. They became partners both for life and business.
In 1962 the collection was shown in Florence, then the centre of the catwalk season for Italian fashion, and rave notices ensued. During the next decade, Valentino becomes possibly the biggest fashion star in Italy and at the same time established many of his key looks.
Graphic black and white, curvy suits, animal prints, siren evening dresses, exotic palazzo wear, and floral prints and decoration. Lavishness is also a key to the image being built by the house, always the best in fabric, accessories, models, and publicity. Quality and finish are of the highest level, fabrics, cut, embroideries, and this follows through in his life from a wine glass to the garden, from napkins to a salad. Only the best will ever do, and indeed, a book on Valentino and entertaining was published.
Stars visit the collections and are entertained by Valentino from the early days with Monica Vitti, Audrey Hepburn, Marisa Berenson, to later with Daphne Guinness. Many of them also become friends and are entertained by him at his various homes and on his yacht. He famously loves the sea and the sun, and his tan is a personal signature from his youth onwards.
In 1970, ready to wear is launched, and by 1975, when Valentino showed in Paris, the image of Valentino was well established. In 1978, the first fragrance was launched again in Paris, where in 1989 Haute Couture was also shown alongside Dior and Chanel at the Beaux Arts and triumphs.
Across the years the Valentino lifestyle reflects the lavishness of the clothes with the gradual acquiring floor by floor of the Palazzo Mignanelli for the headquarters in Rome, a chalet in Gstaad, a house in Holland Park London, an apartment in New York overlooking the Frick Museum, a 150 foot yacht – T.M.Blue One and the Chateau de Wideville outside Paris which in 2010 is launched after the summer couture as the home of the Valentino archive.
In later years, Valentino and Giametti became incredibly open about their relationship and the strength it has given the business. After 12 years together, they remain connected for life. One thing stays constant: the six pugs who travel the globe as part of the Valentino family, a family made up of close associates, many of whom remain with the house even after Valentino’s retirement.
In 2008, Mr Valentino became enough of a legend to play himself in the movie “The Devil Wears Prada”, have a special feature film made about him in 2009 entitled “Valentino The Last Emperor”, receive the Legion d’Honneur in 2006. Across the years, retrospective exhibitions of his work have been seen across the globe, from Beijing to New York.
The founding of his own museum finally added to the legend the PM 23 Fondazione Valentino Garavani and Giancarlo Giammetti was set up in 2016
Born Italian, trained in Paris, famous for dressing Hollywood, comfortably at home in London, socialising in New York with Andy Warhol or preparing dresses for Jacqueline Kennedy to visit Cambodia in, he was truly international.
It is safe to surmise that Mr Valentino not only enjoyed La Dolce Vita, but he also imbued it with joie de vivre; he was unique both in his public persona and his creations, and he is totally, utterly, and completely irreplaceable.
I was lucky enough to spend many hours at the fittings, pre collections set ups, dinners, and collections at the house. Olivier Berghauer and Carlos de Sousa welcomed me as writer and historian both behind the scenes, as well as in my seat at the shows. The house mixes grandeur and glamour with fun and kindness, only the best would do but manners and charm matter as well. To watch the rigour and attention to detail, to see the unerring eye of the man behind it all at work, to understand the hours and hours of demanding work both to create and sustain Valentino the business was a privilege. Goodbye, Mr Valentino.
