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There’s no place like New York City to kick off fashion month. New York Fashion Week officially began on February 6, but the buzz hit the streets well before then. Influencers, editors, photographers, and fashion lovers alike swarmed the city, filling social media with outfit posts – because let’s be honest, if it wasn’t posted, did it even happen?
This season, NYFW started a week earlier than usual, giving fashion insiders a rare chance to recharge before the back-to-back frenzy of London, Milan, and Paris.
The week started on a memorable note as the legendary Patti Smith performed at Jimmy Choo’s first NYFW event in years. Creative director Sandra Choi hosted an intimate late-night gathering at Jean’s on Rue de Lafayette to celebrate their new Spring-Summer campaign starring Chloë Sevigny. With Patti Smith and her daughter providing a powerful performance, NYFW opened with a bang.
Thom Browne brought his signature theatrical flair back to the Big Apple with a show defined by impeccable tailoring. Gingham prints, detailed knits, colourful feathered eyelashes, and dreamy pastels created a whimsical yet structured collection that captivated the NYC crowd.
Heading to London, the lead-up to Fashion Week was met with whispers of absences – no JW Anderson, Nensi Dojaka, or Molly Goddard – dampening initial excitement. But once the week commenced, those worries quickly faded.
Burberry delivered one of the standout moments, continuing its recent pattern of blending fashion with celebrity appeal. Much like their latest campaigns, Daniel Lee’s latest show was packed with famous faces. Naomi Campbell, Karen Elson, Lila Moss, and none other than Richard E. Grant all walked the runway, while the front row boasted names like Nia Archives and Jodie Turner-Smith. In true Burberry fashion, the collection was oh-so British – plenty of outerwear, lots of Burberry check, and plaid in abundance.
A notable mention goes to the whimsical bubble skirts presented during Steven Stokey-Daley’s show. The designer’s remarkable skill in reimagining traditional British heritage certainly stood out, merging modern appeal with subtlety and sophistication: the bubble-hem skirts paired with a traditional barn jacket proved this point perfectly.
Simone Rocha brought a fairytale-like magic to her collection, merging nostalgic childhood motifs with modern design. Her satin handbags, shaped like hares and tortoises, plus faux fur monkey backpacks, brought a surreal whimsy to the runway. Much like the Burberry show, Rocha’s runway features familiar faces, including Alexa Chung, Andrea Riseborough, and Fiona Shaw, adding to the show’s charm.
Creating an unforgettable atmosphere was none other than Richard Quinn. Where better to showcase your latest Fall-Winter collection than in an actual winter wonderland? The Royal Horticultural Halls were transformed into a snowy landscape, and as the models strutted down the runway, even more snow gently fell from above. With a Georgian townhouse as a backdrop and glowing streetlamps lining the runway, the models exuded an ethereal elegance in their bridal-inspired looks.
Meanwhile, Paolo Carzana took a more unconventional approach, presenting his collection inside The Holy Tavern, a historic pub nestled in Clerkenwell. The dimly lit, atmospheric setting of this classic English pub provided a stark contrast to the grandiose shows of the week but certainly stood out as one of the most intimate and memorable moments of London Fashion Week.
After two fashion weeks, you might expect the next city to fall short on the wow factor. But while London Fashion Week is known for pushing boundaries, Milan delivered its unique blend of elegance and experimental flair.
Prada’s show, helmed by Raf Simons and Miuccia Prada, was arguably the most talked-about event of the week. Titled ‘Raw Glamour’, it more than lived up to its name. The collection challenged traditional codes of femininity and beauty – not just through the clothing but also through striking hair and makeup by Guido Palau and Lynsey Alexander. Models sported teased, tousled hair for a deliberately dishevelled ‘just rolled out of bed’ look. Paired with fluffy, untamed eyebrows and bare skin, it was a direct departure from the polished ‘clean girl’ aesthetic. The result? A refreshing embrace of imperfection – an effortless elegance that allowed the clothes to take centre stage.
Even without a permanent creative director following De Sarno’s unexpected departure just two weeks before the show, Gucci’s in-house design team delivered a daring collection, attracting a high-profile audience that was just as discerning and star-studded as ever. The collection paid homage to Gucci’s evolution, nodding to the brand’s iconic horsebit detailing, the ‘90s Tom Ford era, and Alessandro Michele’s geek-chic aesthetic.
One of the biggest breakout artists right now is Doechii, so anticipation was high when she opened the Dsquared2 show. Strutting onto the runway in an ‘ICON’ T-shirt to the beat of her own song ‘Nissan Altima’, she lit up the stage – quite literally – by pulling out a fake cigarette, setting the tone for an unapologetic display of Y2K nostalgia. Distressed denim, leather trench coats, and oversized faux furs paired with fringed chaps and futuristic sunglasses created a perfect blend of chaos and cohesion. The models fully embraced the mood, stomping down the runway with attitude and flashing metal-studded grins, embodying the rebellious spirit of the collection.
Fashion month may be wrapping up, but Paris always proves there’s still plenty to get excited about. After New York, London, and Milan, you’d think things would slow down in Paris. But quite the opposite, as this Paris Fashion Week was packed with exciting debuts, including Alaïa and new designers like Sarah Burton at Givenchy, Julian Klausner at Dries Van Noten, and Haider Ackermann for Tom Ford.
As Paris Fashion Week continued to unfold, Maria Grazia Chiuri once again captivated audiences with her latest work at Dior. Drawing inspiration from the House’s rich heritage, particularly Gianfranco Ferré’s time at Dior, she delivered a collection that seamlessly blended modernity with classic elegance, sensual femininity with an androgynous edge – a balance Chiuri has perfected. A special mention goes to the return of John Galliano’s iconic ‘J’adore Dior’ T-shirt, adding a nostalgic touch. Chiuri’s note to ‘be yourself’ also translated into the beauty team’s vision: strong brows, tucked ponytails, and inverted eyeliner, creating a look that was bold yet pure.
Isabel Marant’s show, a social media favourite, was highly anticipated. Kate Moss opened the show in a head-to-toe black ensemble – a leather jacket, mini lace shorts, and studded boots – setting the tone for the effortless cool-girl vibe the brand is famous for. Funky tights, polka dots, lace, and plaid dominated the runway, while the front row featured the biggest internet it-girls.
As expected, The Row’s show remained a camera-free event, keeping the focus entirely on the clothing. The models walked barefoot, their faces partially obscured by their hair or covered with scarves, creating an air of mystery and minimalism. The collection was centred around outerwear, with coats taking centre stage. Sweaters were nonchalantly slung over shoulders, while purse belts offered a refined touch, perfectly complementing the collection’s understated elegance.
At Coperni, Sébastien Meyer and Arnaud Vaillant fused fashion and gaming at the new Adidas Arena. Drawing inspiration from early internet LAN parties, models walked through a space filled with 200 gamers. The collection mixed hacker aesthetics with digital icons, offering schoolgirl-inspired sailor dresses, thigh belts reminiscent of Lara Croft, miniskirts, and knee-high socks. All of it was paired with the brand’s new Five-Toe sneaker. For those who weren’t into gaming, there were plenty of sleek eveningwear options showcasing Coperni’s ability to balance different aesthetics. A special shoutout to their accessories: the Tamagotchi-embedded version of their signature Swipe bag and limited-edition Ray-Ban Meta Wayfarer sunglasses had fashion fans in a frenzy.
