A Legislative Shift With Global Implications
A new law imposed on June 10th marks a significant shift in France’s approach to fast fashion. Under this legislation, major fast fashion advertising and promotion, particularly by social media influencers, will be banned in the country. Chinese e-commerce giants like Shein and Temu are among the first to feel the effects, as individual fashion items sold by these companies will now be subject to a minimum tax of €5 per item—a fee that is set to double within the next five years.
However, the law is not yet finalised. A joint committee of senators and members of the National Assembly is expected to convene in September to draft a unified version of the bill. This means the finalised text must be completed before the legislation can be officially adopted. Additionally, the European Commission must be notified to ensure the bill complies with European Union laws.
Interestingly, European fast fashion brands such as Zara (Spain) and H&M (Sweden) are, for now, exempt from the legislation. It remains unclear whether this exemption is due to their recent efforts to reduce environmentally harmful practices within their operations or for other reasons. This, in turn, raises questions about the true motives behind the bill: is it genuinely driven by environmental concerns, or is it strategically designed to protect the local and European markets from non-European competition?
The global fashion industry accounts for around 10% of greenhouse gas emissions and consumes up to 93 billion cubic meters of water annually. Some fast fashion brands have begun pivoting toward more sustainable practices. For instance, after pressure from Greenpeace, Zara pledged to eliminate hazardous chemicals from its supply chain by 2020. Both Zara and H&M have also increased their use of recycled materials by approximately 50%.
The removal of fast fashion companies from the French market could reinforce the somewhat misleading narrative that high fashion is inherently more eco-friendly—and therefore morally superior. By banning fast fashion giants like Shein, which are known for polluting the environment through the mass production of low-quality materials and the alleged disposal of unsold items, the European fashion sector is positioned as the cleaner, more sustainable alternative. This contrast positions European luxury fashion as an environmentally responsible choice, whether or not that’s entirely accurate.
This may be explained by specific psychological principles, which suggest that people often choose eco-friendly products because doing so makes them feel morally good. In this light, the new French law may be targeting consumer perception as much as it is addressing industry practices. Therefore, although the law is publicly framed as an environmental initiative, it may also be driven by deeper psychological and economic motives—specifically, the desire to position non-European markets as morally irresponsible in contrast to a European fashion industry that presents itself as actively combating climate change.
However, this also highlights the protection of fashion in France, which is seen as a cultural asset, surrounded by laws specifically designed to shield it from potentially harmful external influences, such as the rise of fast fashion. The Fédération de la Haute Couture, in particular, plays a crucial role in preserving this status by upholding strict standards that have existed since the 1940s. Under the rules of the organisation, to be officially recognised as an haute couture house, fashion brands must meet rigorous criteria, such as operating an atelier in Paris with at least 15 full-time employees and presenting no fewer than 50 original designs to the press twice per year.
Now, the standards used to protect French haute couture are once again evolving to reflect the priorities of today’s market, none other than the environmentally conscious and sustainability-aware consumer. While this shift could be seen as a form of consumer manipulation—subconsciously promoting the idea that the European fashion industry is more ethical than its non-European counterparts—it may also bring genuine benefits to both France and Europe. By aligning their business practices with the core environmental values of today’s sustainability-conscious consumers, European companies stand to gain both market favour and ecological relevance.
More importantly, this push may help foster a more sustainable fashion industry overall, as brands are forced to adapt or risk losing access to the French market altogether. Additionally, the European fashion economy is likely to benefit significantly, since consumers will be less able to purchase cheaper items that will now carry an additional tax of €5 to €10 per product.
This, however, raises another important question: if the protection of French haute couture—and, by extension, the culture and economy of France—is being actively supported through legislation that emphasises the significance of fashion to national identity, should other major fashion capitals follow in its footsteps?
More precisely, countries such as the UK may need to consider similar measures to ensure the protection of their economy, fashion identity, and impact on the industry. By restricting fast fashion and enforcing stricter standards in garment production, the UK could not only contribute to a more sustainable fashion ecosystem but also stimulate the growth of high-fashion and ethical luxury brands within its own borders. Such a shift could play a crucial role in revitalising local economies and positioning homegrown fashion as both environmentally responsible and globally competitive.
This line of questioning becomes even more urgent in light of recent developments, which find British fashion houses such as Alexander McQueen and Victoria Beckham relocating their shows to Paris following Brexit. This outcome is partly driven by the imposition of VAT on sales, which can be as high as 20% in the UK, compared to France, where non-EU visitors can reclaim the tax upon leaving the country—a policy that has contributed to a nearly £5 billion decline in clothing sales within the UK market.
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