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Convivium
Set against the charged backdrop of London’s Newgen, Marie Lueder’s Spring/Summer 2026 collection unfolds like a modern carnival. Titled Convivium—Latin for feast or gathering—the show tapped into the joy, chaos, and ritual of collective experience, refracted through Lueder’s street-lux lens. The result was a wardrobe where medieval carnival met dystopian Venice Beach, where utility collided with theatrical draping, and where the intimacy of community pulsed through every look.
Textures told the story: soft jersey hooded tops ruched into monastic folds, sheer mesh layered into rust-and-slate marbling, and structured outerwear marked with graffiti-like motifs. LUEDER blurred the boundary between spectacle and street, creating a runway that felt both conceptual and comfortably wearable.
Standouts included a sheer mesh set, its marbled prints layered over contrasting basketweave textures, evoking painterly depth; oversized technical outerwear stitched into exaggerated panels, paired with ultra-wide trousers for a defiant utility mood; and a sand-brown padded jacket offset by a sheer moss-green floral skirt, a pairing that turned protection into poetry. A printed tee styled with an extravagant fringed scarf elevated everyday graphics into performance costume, while an oversized pastel-striped shirt, capped with a short terry capelet, proved playful layering could still feel luxe.
The cinematic echoes of Baz Luhrmann’s Romeo + Juliet—its erotic charge, its drag exuberance, its feverish heat—were alive here. A black fitted top stamped with “UNRAVELING” and worn with wide cargo trousers captured Mercutio’s rebel spirit, while the collection’s palette of sunburnt asphalt, wine-stain red, bleached greys, and washed neutrals traced the grit and glamour of a dystopian summer.
At its heart, Convivium is less about clothing than about communion. Lueder’s banquet is one of shared identity, queer sensuality, and tender masculinity—offered with the urgency of a world that recognises the rarity of togetherness. In oversized silhouettes, sculptural layering, and expressive printwork, LUEDER SS26 delivers a feast for both the body and the collective spirit.
