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Oscar Ouyang’s latest collection unfolded like a fever dream: part costume ball, part battlefield, and wholly committed to texture as narrative. The press notes arrived as a letter — intimate, poetic, and brimming with imagery of feathers, tassels, and trembling floors — and the clothes echoed that same mix of intimacy and spectacle.
One of the most striking looks came in the form of a sculptural puffer vest — though calling it a “puffer” hardly does it justice. Rather than utilitarian padding, its dimensional build felt tactile, almost architectural. It’s the sort of piece that begs to be touched and examined up close, its playfulness rooted in material curiosity rather than volume alone. It reminded us that garments can be objects of interaction as much as adornment.
Ouyang’s use of woven and natural fibres added a raw, artisanal edge. An oversized straw-toned top, crafted in open basketry weave, felt both rustic and refined, the kind of textile that filters light as much as it clothes the body. Paired with tasselled shorts and organic embellishments, it spoke to a return to handcraft, each thread amplifying the collection’s tactile storytelling.
But if the woven work grounded the show in craft, the metallic knit dress sent it spinning into fantasy. Its ribbed body clung like armour, only to unravel into long, flowing fringes that danced with each step. This duality — structure meeting play — captured Ouyang’s knack for balancing fashion and fibre art.
Across the runway, motifs of feathers and tassels reinforced the “ball” narrative, fluttering with a sense of defiance and joy. Suede jackets, waxed cotton, and Fair Isle knits appeared like fragments of memory, while chino shorts embroidered with keyhole motifs leaned into the show’s theatrical storytelling.
By the close, Ouyang’s ballroom had shifted into something more haunting, as press notes recalled cannon fire and dust from the ceiling. Yet even here, beauty persisted — a reminder that his clothes are about holding onto fleeting, intimate moments, even in chaos.
This was a collection for touch as much as sight: playful, poetic, and grounded in craft.
