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‘The Lord of Darkness’ returned to Paris Fashion Week on the fourth evening, staying true to his signature style. His Dark and dystopian Fall-Winter collection, ‘Concordians,’ pays homage to the small town of Concordia in Italy, where Rick and his team lived for an extended period while working on multiple collections.
Upon entering the Palais de Tokyo, it was immediately clear that a Rick Owens show was underway. The venue was adorned with black silhouettes, balaclavas, chains, and belts – some signature elements of an Owens’ aesthetic. In the front row, a notable first-timer was Chappel Roan, wearing the iconic Prong dress, accessorised with pointillist-style make-up and a pair of white lenses – a look Rick would undoubtedly approve of. Other attendees included Vaquera’s Bryan Taubensee and Patric DiCaprio, the multidisciplinary Luka Sabbat, musician Sissy Misfit and not to forget Rick’s wife Michèle Lamy.
Much like the men’s collection presented earlier in January, this womenswear collection was inspired by the 22 years Rick and his team spent living in ‘isolation’ in the small Northern Italian town of Concordia, where their factory was located. But the sense of nostalgia didn’t stop there. As the models took to the runway, Iggy Pop’s “Mass Production” poured through the speakers, a song that also served as the soundtrack to Rick’s debut New York Fashion Week show back in 2002.
The show kicked off in true Rick Owens fashion, with models draped in varying shades of black. Their ethereal, almost ghostly stillness gave an eerie quality to the foggy, industrial runway. Imposing coats and monolithic cloaks with signature pointed shoulders and towering collars dominated the scene. As the collection progressed, denim and leather ensembles were introduced, featuring trousers that were split down the seams to transform into chaps. A series of white designs followed, each enhanced with sparkling, intricate detailing. The draping of the garments evoked the fluid contours of classical sculptures, all the while maintaining a strong, vampy aesthetic with dark contact lenses and elongated eyeshadow.
Anyone watching the show couldn’t help but notice the standout laser-cut leather looks. Following a collaboration with Parisian designer Victor Clavelly for the previous men’s collection, which featured a pair of fringed leather Kiss boots, Rick revisited this same technique, this time using it for striking skirts and dresses. Crafted from groppone cow leather, the material was laser-cut and handwoven into an eye-catching lattice design.
Almost every look was completed with a pair of Kiss boots, their slouchy tops seamlessly blending into the model’s silhouettes and perfectly complementing the collection’s overall aesthetic.
