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It seemed as though ancient Rome had a stylish makeover during the presentation of Roberto Cavalli Fall-Winter 2025 collection in Milan yesterday.
Fausto Puglisi, the creative director of Roberto Cavalli, has long been captivated by culture. Immersing himself in architectural details and constantly capturing images of vibrant marble from around the world, this fascination often weaves its way into his designs – just look at Cavalli’s Fall/Winter 2024 collection. As fate would have it, just a day before the show, archaeologists unveiled new frescoes in the ancient city of Pompeii, depicting Dionysus, the god of wine and indulgence. While Pompeii was the true inspiration behind the collection, the fresco discoveries weren’t the direct catalyst. However, the spirit of Dionysus certainly resonated with the themes of indulgence, decadence, and sensuality that ran throughout the collection.
Puglisi, like many Italian designers, takes immense pride in his and the brand’s Italian heritage. This passion often translates into his work, celebrating Italy’s diverse locations. Think of Roberto Cavalli’s Resort 2024 collection that took inspiration from Puglisi’s hometown of Messina, Sicily. Growing up, Puglisi was enchanted by Pompeii, a fascination sparked from a childhood trip with his family. To him, Pompeii represents both an ancient cultural landmark and a modern muse. He referenced a dark red Pompeii fresco on one of his mood boards, seeing Roman culture as timeless – intertwining the old with the new.
From the moment the models graced the runway, the Pompeii-inspired palette dominated – deep reds and moody greys, and even volcanic orange patterns evoked the spirit of the ancient city. All this was highlighted by red mood lighting and a dark, almost volcanic runway.
For this collection, Puglisi worked with an artist to recreate a blue-green garden fresco from an archaeological site. On the runway, the fresco came to life in the form of slip dresses edged in black lace, alongside floor-length gowns embroidered with flowers and vines. The same inspiration was evident in the handbags, where gold handles were shaped like serpents.
While the collection included more restrained pieces, such as the devore velvet ensembles and delicate silky dresses – seemingly tame for a maximalist brand like Cavalli – abundance wasn’t far behind. The runway soon saw eccentric coats adorned in lava-hot colours and faux furs. Big fur coats and the prominent use of animal print—think leopard and snake patterns—were signature to the brand but also served as a nod to the exotic creatures once kept by ancient Romans for their opulent hunting games.
The collection was full of intricate details, from feathery straps on short, slinky dresses to long, lavish peplum skirts. Delicate necklaces and jewellery, reminiscent of gold leaf, added an elegant touch, while big square sequins evoked the feel of mosaic tiles. Iconic printed jeans, a signature of Roberto Cavalli, also made their appearance. The extravagance and meticulous attention to detail were undeniable, transporting the audience straight into a world of Pompeii-inspired grandeur.
