Dior has succeeded in consistently balancing its rich legacy with contemporary relevance. From the ‘New Look’ era to its present-day feminist outlook on fashion, the brand’s heritage and DNA have been pivotal in shaping Dior into the prestigious, luxury brand it is today.
From Christian Dior himself to the flamboyant John Galliano, Raf Simons, or the current Maria Grazia Chiuri, each creative director has recognised the importance of the labels’ heritage and brand identity. For luxury brands, establishing a distinct and enduring identity is essential to maintaining a lasting and positive image. By staying true to its core DNA, Dior ensures that iconic designs such as the Bar jacket or the Junon dress continue to resonate across generations.
In 1947, French designer Christian Dior launched his legacy with his debut collection ‘Corolle’ (translated to “a circlet of flower petals”). “I have designed flower women”, Mr. Dior exclaimed referring to the delicate, yet extravagant floral inspiration behind his debut collection. Dior’s vision was also shaped by his personal beliefs in astrology and destiny. The designer often drew inspiration from mysticism, and a defining moment occurred in 1946 when he found a metal star on the streets of Paris on his way to meet Marcel Boussac, who had agreed to finance his fashion house – a sign he believed guided his path toward the House of Dior. This star motif would become central to the brand’s identity, appearing in numerous collections, symbolising a lucky charm and a sense of fate in his work, just think of the Dior star sneakers or the star motif appearing in various accessories.
This groundbreaking collection paved the way for post-war fashion, featuring ankle-length gowns with dramatic draping and cinched waists. Although the extravagant use of fabric in his ‘New Look’ initially sparked controversy amidst wartime fabric restrictions, the end of the rationing allowed Dior’s vision to flourish. His empire expanded rapidly, eventually leading to the opening of the House of Dior at 30 Avenue Montaigne in Paris. Among the most iconic pieces from this first collection was the Bar Jacket, characterised by softened shoulders, a cinched waist, and a bulbous peplum that unfurled like flower petals over the hips. Often paired with full, fine-pleated skirts, the jacket epitomised the revolutionary femininity Dior introduced to fashion. Far from being a one-hit wonder, the Bar Jacket has been continuously revisited and reinterpreted by each of the house’s creative directors, solidifying its place as a timeless symbol of Dior’s vision.
The spirit of Dior’s debut collection, particularly his love for flowers and mysticism, has echoed through the years in the work of various creative directors. Many have delved into the brand’s archives, drawing inspiration from the provocation and extravagance that Dior collections are known for. Mr. Dior’s vision brought a breath of fresh air to the post-war era, offering designs that redefined femininity and celebrated opulence. It wasn’t long before The House of Dior’s appeal reached beyond borders, captivating consumers worldwide. With its elegant, luxurious designs, Dior attracted celebrities and royals alike, and its expansion into metropolitan cities like Milan and New York was an inevitable result.
As part of his ‘Milieu du siècle’ line for Fall/Winter 1949, Christian Dior designed the iconic Junon dress, which can be seen as Mr. Dior’s ultimate masterpiece. Its blue-green petals, meticulously embroidered by the House of Rébé, resembled the iridescent feathers of a peacock. Part of the same line was Junon’s counterpart, Vénus, a ball gown in grey silk tulle entirely embroidered with a sequined feather motif. These two designs ultimately put Christian Dior on the map, giving his brand the status of Haute Couture. To true Dior style, the iconic Junon design has been reinterpreted by several creative directors of the house, including John Galliano in 2010, and current director Maria Grazia Chiuri in 2017 for her first Haute Couture collection with ‘New Junon’.
Once a brand establishes its DNA, it must convey its identity through unique brand codes – symbols, patterns, or colours that reflect its heritage. For Dior, an example can be its cannage stitching, inspired by the chairs at Mr. Dior’s first fashion show, a pattern that has since become an unmistakable symbol of the brand. These brand codes must be rooted in the brand’s origins and consistently carried through future collections to maintain a strong brand identity.
Mr. Dior passed away in 1957, at the age of 52. Nevertheless, his influence persisted, inspiring future generations of designers and creative directors by shaping the core values of the House of Dior. To this day, Dior’s runway shows continue to reinterpret and celebrate his legacy, keeping his vision alive in every collection. His successor was none other than future renowned designer Yves Saint Laurent, who had previously been his assistant. Saint Laurent’s first collection, the Trapeze Line for Spring/Summer 1958 upheld Dior’s commitment to formal elegance, while also breaking away from Dior’s signature form-fitting designs, with its A-line trapeze shape. Following in the footsteps of his mentor, Saint Laurent tailored his creations to resonate with the cultural climate, much like Dior had done before him.
When Yves Saint Laurent was drafted into the army in 1960, Marc Bohan took over the reins as the new creative director of the house until 1989. This French designer was predominantly known for introducing the ‘Slim Look’, a sleek reinterpretation of Dior’s iconic ‘New Look’ silhouette. Under his creative direction, Dior attracted high-profile ambassadors, such as Princess Grace of Monaco and Italian actress Sophia Loren.
After Bohan, Dior appointed its first non-French creative director, Gianfranco Ferré from Milan. Ferré designed fifteen collections for Dior, experimenting with materials and constructions, resulting in an architectural approach to Haute couture. Recalling the beloved cannage stitching of Christian Dior, Ferré brought it back to life through the iconic Lady Dior bag. Making its first appearance in 1995, seen on the arm of none other than Lady Diana, Princess of Wales, during her trip to Paris. Before that sighting, the bag had no name to do it justice, but thanks to the predecessors of street-style photography, it received the perfect one: the Lady Dior. Given Princess Diana’s cultural relevance and the frequency with which she was photographed wearing it, the Lady Dior quickly soared to iconic status, securing its place in handbag history. Season after season, the Lady Dior bag has been reimagined, ensuring it remains timeless and always in style.
Yet, a more drastic shift was on the horizon. In 1966, John Galliano, formerly of Givenchy, stepped in as creative director. Galliano is no stranger to extravagance and theatrical flair, and he brought exactly that to Dior. His time at Dior marked a brand revamp for the fashion house, where theatricality wasn’t confined to just the clothes – lavish designs, intricate beadwork, and dramatic presentations turned Dior’s runway shows into high-fashion spectacles.
Galliano’s era remains iconic, resonating with many Gen Z fashion enthusiasts who embrace the 2000s nostalgia. The enduring appeal of Dior’s Saddle bags stands as a testament to the lasting influence of Galliano’s work. Galliano brought a daring postmodern energy to the house’s storied heritage, making it relevant to a new generation.
However, Galliano’s time at Dior came to an abrupt end in 2011 after he made some controversial anti-Semitic remarks. He was temporarily followed up by Bill Gaytten, who represented the house until 2012, when acclaimed Belgian designer, Raf Simons stepped up. Although Simons’ time at Dior was relatively brief – from 2012 to 2015 – he designed 20 collections for the fashion house. In stark contrast to Galliano, Simons brought a more modern sensibility to the brand, introducing androgynous tailoring and sleek silhouettes. His legacy at Dior is most remembered for his modern reinterpretations of the iconic Bar jacket from Christian Dior’s 1947 debut collection, as well as enlisting global pop star Rihanna as a prominent brand ambassador.
In 2016, the first woman manned the post as creative director of Dior. Valentino’s Maria Grazia Chiuri has since brought a captivating sense of modernity to the label. In her debut Spring/Summer 2017 collection, the phrase “We Should All Be Feminists” was imprinted on T-shirts, signalling her commitment to feminism as much as to fashion, a theme that has resonated throughout all her collections. While bringing a fresh, feminist perspective to the label, Chiuri remains faithful to the brand’s mystical heritage. This is exemplified by the ‘Lucky Dior’ capsule collection, which pays homage to Dior’s fascination with astrology. The collection prominently featured the ‘Zodiac Pixel’ print, a vibrant, eye-catching design depicting the 12 astrological signs.
The Italian designer has succeeded in finding a balance between wearability and intellectualism. With a focus on collaborating with female artists and photographers, empowering women is a central focus for Chiuri, ushering in a new chapter in the rich legacy of the House of Dior.
