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As trans rights face political attacks, a simple white T-shirt emblazoned with “PROTECT THE DOLLS” has become an unlikely rallying cry. When American designer Conner Ives wore this slogan to close his London Fashion Week show in February 2025, it immediately symbolised solidarity with transgender women. The phrase itself comes from 1980s ballroom slang, “dolls” affectionately refers to trans women, so putting it on a runway brought a community-born call to the forefront of high fashion. By thrusting this insider term into the mainstream, Ives sparked a conversation far beyond clothes.
Ives initially created the shirt as a one-off response to mounting anti-trans rhetoric. Its debut came at a crucial moment, amid moves to legally erase transgender people from recognition in the US. Rather than project despair, Ives wanted his show to deliver defiant love – he even credited “the dolls” (trans women) in his life for his success. The public reaction was immediate. A surge of support pushed Ives to release the tee for general sale as a fundraiser. In just a month, roughly 5,000 orders poured in, raising about £380,000 for the trans-led hotline “Trans Lifeline”. A grassroots slogan had transformed into a viral campaign overnight.
The rise of T-shirts owes much to the celebrities who championed them. Pop star Troye Sivan wore “Protect the Dolls” on stage at Coachella, broadcasting its message to thousands. In London, actor Pedro Pascal donned the shirt at a film premiere just days after a U.K. court ruling denied trans women legal recognition as women. On a Hollywood red carpet, Pascal’s simple outfit delivered a bold statement of support. Other stars soon followed: legendary actress Tilda Swinton posed in it on social media, and Gen-Z pop stars were spotted sporting it. Each sighting amplified the slogan’s visibility, turning fashion into a public declaration of allyship.
Seeing openly gay men like Sivan and popular actors like Pascal publicly back trans women was hailed as a powerful show of solidarity, signalling that trans people aren’t fighting alone, allies are stepping up. The slogan even popped up on protest signs at trans rights marches, further proof of its grassroots resonance.
The Protect the Dolls phenomenon exemplifies how fashion can be a vehicle for activism and identity politics. Slogan tees have long been part of style’s political toolkit, but this design stands out by centring transgender women, a group too often sidelined. By elevating a phrase born in queer subculture to the runway, Ives bridged the gap between ballroom culture and mainstream fashion. “Protection for our trans friends should be a given,” the designer told GQ, reflecting a new era where designers feel compelled to speak out.
High fashion’s embrace of “Protect the Dolls” illustrates shifting industry dynamics. Ives didn’t treat the slogan as a gimmick; he created it out of personal conviction and funnelled the proceeds to charity, underscoring commitment over profit. The broad response shows that supporting trans rights is not only acceptable in fashion, but now it’s desirable. Crucially, the shirt’s ubiquity sparked conversations beyond fashion circles, prompting many to ask who “the dolls” are, opening dialogue about why trans women need protection and spotlighting the discrimination they face. A fashion statement had turned into a statement of inclusion and resistance. It’s a powerful reminder that clothes can speak volumes and that even the simplest garment can unite people in a cause far beyond aesthetics.
