A New Chapter Written in the Language of McQueen
There is something about McQueen that never truly leaves the room. The harnesses, the leather, the sharp tailoring and the instantly recognisable beauty references — they remain part of the house’s visual vocabulary. But with Seán McGirr’s Spring/Summer 2027 collection, those familiar codes feel like they are being brought into conversation with a new generation.
Presented in London’s Undercroft at Lincoln’s Inn Chapel, the collection marks McQueen’s return to London Fashion Week, drawing on the city’s contrasts between historicism and modernity, the sacred and the subcultural. McGirr describes the collection as a celebration of London’s energy and uncompromising attitude.
For me, the collection feels almost like a meeting point between the worlds of Lee Alexander McQueen and Sarah Burton, while continuing to develop what Seán McGirr has been building since taking over the house. Rather than simply repeating the past, the collection revisits familiar signatures through a more contemporary lens.
The harness remains an important visual element, including a bespoke precious-metal piece created by long-term McQueen collaborator Shaun Leane. His work for SS27 also draws on the house’s archive, with sculptural headpieces revisiting designs from previous McQueen collections.
The hair is equally striking. Sculptural, horn-like silhouettes create an almost otherworldly effect, while other looks reference the energy of London’s rave culture. The styling adds another layer to the collection, making the clothes feel more than simply tailored or constructed — they become part of a complete character. Vogue noted the connection between the hair and rave culture, including references to the late musician Keith Flint.
Menswear, with a little attitude
The menswear was particularly interesting for us.
The combination of sharply cut tailoring, an open silk shirt and a wide belt creates a look that feels polished but not overly restrained. There is a sense of modern-day sensuality in the styling — a man dressed with precision, but with enough looseness to avoid feeling too formal.
Other looks bring together oversized tailoring, short trousers and graphic colour, showing how McGirr is exploring the tension between traditional menswear and something more playful.
The collection also includes three bespoke men’s silhouettes created with Huntsman, built around elongated proportions, exaggerated shoulders and a high, narrow waist. It is a continuation of McQueen’s relationship with Savile Row tailoring, but with a more sculptural and contemporary attitude.
The skull, reimagined
One of the most memorable pieces is the dress featuring interlinked, hand-embroidered metal skulls. It is a recognisable McQueen reference, but the execution feels intricate and almost jewellery-like, allowing the skull motif to become part of the structure and surface of the dress rather than simply a graphic statement.
Elsewhere, delicate organza, lacquered satin, leather harnesses and metallic embellishments create a contrast between fragility and strength. The collection moves between eveningwear, tailoring and rave-inspired elements, giving the clothes a sense of theatricality without losing their connection to the wardrobe.
McQueen SS27 feels like a collection in progress — a designer continuing to understand the house’s history while finding his own way to express it.
And perhaps that is the most interesting part.
The signatures are still there. The direction is moving forward.
