Simone Rocha requested the attention of the class this Sunday at Goldsmiths’ Hall in London, where she gave the ultimate lesson in how to make nostalgia feel new: fables, fur, bows, and Radiohead. The FW25 collection explored different schoolyard groups, mixing preppy uniform dressing with elements of individuality and rebellion. Backstage, Rocha, the Irish designer, said she always saw herself as part of the emo crowd at school, so it’s no surprise that the show was set to the angsty yet sentimental sound of No Surprises by Radiohead.
Rocha didn’t just reference the schoolyard, she cast it. Friends and actors, including Alexa Chung, Fiona Shaw, Bel Powley, and Andrea Riseborough took on roles that reflected different school personas.
Beyond the school-day references, The Tortoise and the Hare played a key role. It was her headmistress’s favourite fable, making it the perfect link between childhood memory and the collection’s themes. The contrast between slow and steady versus fast and impulsive came through in the mix of sharp tailoring and flowing fabrics, polished structure and undone softness.
Fur had a bigger presence than ever before, appearing on oversized collars, wrapped around shoulders, and as cropped faux fur tops that added contrast against sheer tulles and silks. Faux fur coats were sliced into ribbons at the hem, a detail echoed in silk jacquard dresses and ribbon-threaded pieces.
Hares were everywhere, peeking out from bags, slung over shoulders as scarves, or carried like keepsakes. The tortoise appeared as structured resin bags, a new take on Rocha’s signature egg bags, tying back to the collection’s fable-inspired theme.
The influence of school dressing was clear but not strict. Belted locks, oversized bows, and crisp collars gave a sense of refinement, while layered coats, pleated skirts, and tailored pieces brought a polished edge. Biker-inspired coats and perfecto jackets were seen on Bel Powley and Alexa Chung. Lace-trimmed slips and tinsel-threaded bouclé tweed further played with texture, reinforcing Rocha’s signature balance of toughness and softness.
“A nod to nostalgia, but also trying to keep it quite present to today,” Rocha said backstage. That’s exactly what it was, a collection that looked back while feeling entirely of the moment.
Simone Rocha just schooled us on FW25 dressing, and with that, class dismissed.
