Some fashion shows feel like a collection. SUSAN FANG SS27 feels like a world.
For Spring/Summer 2027, Susan Fang explores M. Butterfly and the complicated relationship between love, fantasy and illusion. But rather than turning the runway into a theatrical costume drama, Fang makes the fantasy feel surprisingly wearable.
Looking at the collection, I almost feel like animated characters have stepped out of their own universe and into real life. There are floating flowers, transparent layers, sculptural shapes and silver reflections, but despite all the theatrical references, it never feels like costume.
The collection moves between high-fashion fantasy, bridal-like silhouettes, evening gowns and ready-to-wear without making any of them feel separate. A romantic flower-covered gown sits alongside sheer, everyday silhouettes, while the traditional Chinese qipao/cheongsam is reworked into something much more contemporary — transparent, sculptural and with just enough sexiness.
The real magic, for me, is in the textiles and textures.
Susan Fang’s signature Air-Flower technique creates an almost weightless floral effect, while layers of organza, feathers, embroidery and crochet bring different levels of texture to the collection. The colour palette keeps that dreamlike quality going: porcelain blue and white, soft mint and peach, with softer lilac tones and brighter blues appearing across the looks. The effect feels almost like traditional Chinese ceramics have been dissolved into fabric and rebuilt into something futuristic. Then there is the broken porcelain idea — fractured, repainted and reconstructed rather than hidden. Even the imperfections become part of the beauty.
And then, just when you think the collection is all delicate romance, Crocs enter the conversation.
The Crocs × SUSAN FANG Echo Blume collaboration brings Fang’s floral language onto Crocs’ new Echo Lume silhouette. According to the brand, the runway debut marked the silhouette’s worldwide unveiling ahead of its Spring 2027 launch. Honestly, I could wear these from the airport straight to a dinner date.
And that is what makes this collection work for me. It can be fantastical without becoming fantasy dress-up. The clothes have the drama of couture, the romance of a wedding wardrobe, the delicacy of an evening gown — but there are still pieces you can imagine building an actual wardrobe around. Susan Fang has taken illusion and made it tangible: through colour, transparency, texture, flowers and the unexpected collision of technology with handcraft. It is beautiful, slightly surreal and, most importantly, alive.
